Surti Khaman

AVATARS OF SURTI KHAMAN
Kareena Kapoor finds them ‘dangerous and explosive ‘, nutritionists regularly recommend them and The Foodie couldn’t resist them on his recent trip to Surat. We are talking about Khaman Dhoklas, the spongy delights that regularly feature in Gujarati gourmet cooking.

Khaman belongs to the Farsan course in Gujarati cuisine. A course that culinary connoisseur; Busybee Behram described as,’tid bits that you have before, during and after a Gujarati meal.”

Available nationwide at sweetmeat shops in a semi sweet sandwich dhokla version, which is a far cry from authentic ones available in its place of origin-Gujarat.

Khaman, was originally invented by the Kathiawadis of Saurashtra, in a smooth version that is known as, ‘Nylon khaman’, which is made from Bengal Gram flour ,in a method similar to preparing its cousin ‘Idlas ‘which are prepared from rice batter and dhoklas that are made from jowar flour,mung dal flour etc.

Sometime around the early18 th century, Surtis began preparing Khaman from coarsely ground gram dal, which gave it a spongier, crumblier texture. These were further sautéed in a dash of oil, with sputtering mustard seeds, a hint of asafetida and green chillies sliced lengthwise, served with crunchy sev,topped with finely chopped coriander leaves and a pasty ,sweet –spicy chutney on the side. Leela Parekh, 86, reminisces buying,” A delicious handful for Re.1, in the 1930’s from Harihar Farsan that existed near the old Ambaji temple.”

Surat holds its place in history for fine dining; our Shastras recommend Surat nu Jaman ane Kashi nu maran (dining in Surat and dying in Kashi) as the ultimate experience for the soul .The humble Khaman in its unending avatar’s is just the tip of Tapi town’s food tales and trails.

Sold here in a host of different preparations are–Trirangi-Tri coloured Khaman, Locha Khaman- in 32 varieties and counting, Khamni - which is a velvety and sweeter version, Rasawala Khaman- wet and wild on the tongue. All of them are handled differently post the hot steaming affair, tempered and teased with a hint of garlic at times or sprinkle of dry spices, smothered with either groundnut oil or butter to turn them into lip smacking temptations in their league.

Within the by lanes of the old walled city area, little kiosks function from as early as 6 a.m, through the day till 9 p.m.Many of the old stalwarts like Surti Khaman and Madhi ni Khamni, have branched out to the suburbs, selling a little bit of everything to match up to the ever rising demands .A couple of shops however, remain exclusive to their innovations and proudly claim,” we have no other branches”

Gopal Khaman House, in Macharpura Kharadi Sheri, opposite the Surat Railway station, is one such place. Begun 25 years ago, in little hand cart, it now functions like a burger joint with a live kitchen, done up in steel. Run by Ameetaben and her husband Rajeshbhai Patel, who till date prepare the guarded basic receipe by themselves.

“Gram dal is soaked for 4 hours, then coarsely ground and left to ferment overnight for 8 hours, post which ginger chilli paste, soda –bi carb, turmeric and salt to taste are added to it before its set to steam. Locho is served with a special chilli pickle and chopped onions. The trick is in the process of its steaming, it is like a collapsed cake, Locho in Gujarati literally means gudbud (hanky panky), and we actually discovered this dish by disaster. We added butter and spices to Khaman gone wrong and got a hit on our hands,” smiles Ameetaben.

The faux pas led her to experiment further still with different toppings. Gopal boasts of Khaman locho in flavours such as Italian-topped with macaroni that is sautéed with capsicum, onions and the god father of all garam masalas. Also available, are other flavours that range from Punjabi, Chinese, Green garlic, royal gold, sizzler etc.

” For youngsters ,we have locho pizza, burger and grilled sandwiches and as soon as my son returns from Bangkok next week, we plan to introduce some South East Asian varieties of Locho, ”claims the proud owner.

Another exclusive receipe is the Rasawala Khaman available from Jay Jalaram Khaman, Chowk Bazaar. Begun 45 years ago at 20 paise per plate, by Sakaria brothers. While Khaman in all other places is sold dry, this one is a glutinous version with gravy that is topped with fresh kachumber and grated coconut, as an accompaniment.

No one has till date been able to ape the saucy hot gravy with traces of tamarind, jaggery and mung dal, which is poured over this Rs.10 dish, that’s sold out, nineteen to the dozen from 8 a.m to 10 p.m. ”Our customers relish Rasawala khaman for breakfast lunch and dinner and top it with a tumbler of cooling Jayshankar lassi that we sell adjacently “,gushes Jackie Sakaria, who represents the third generation in the trade with a pair of jeans and a black tee,”7 families survive on the income generated from these two hand carts.”

Meanwhile, the Surti farsan shop in California, USA, is heading towards its silver jubilee year with an annual turnover of millions of dollars. Begun in 1986 by lt. Nathubhai Patel who thought of trying out something other than the regular Patel -motel trade, it also has an online service that provides doorstep delivery of Khaman and other Surti farsan to home sick NRI s throughout America.

Just goes to prove that you can take a Surti away from his Khaman, but you can never take Khaman away from a Surti.